A Quebecois Christmas - Tourtière

Prep time: 20 to 30 minutes (for filling)
Bake time: 30 minutes
Makes: One 9-inch pie

The French Canadian province of Quebec is home to a meat pie whose origins can be traced to the "tourtes" or savory pies of the Middle Ages in France. Encased in pastry, these pies were created to make use of roasted meats that were left over from a "festin" or banquet.

Although related to its tourte cousins of centuries ago, present-day tourtières are made with fresh meat and are absolutely exquisite. They are made with a combination of ground pork, beef or veal and potato and are served as part of the Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, or New Year’s Eve dinner.

While baking these pies, the spices will warm up your home with holiday aromas. Whenever I prepare tourtières, I am magically transported to my past Christmases where I suddenly see the snowy streets of Montreal lined with quaint homes or shops - all sparkling with yuletide lights and décor. And then, I imagine coming home to my family to enjoy "le reveillon de Noël" - our modern-day, traditional Christmas banquet.

Merry Christmas and Bon Appétit!

Ingredients:
Pâte Brisée recipe (previously published on this blog on May 12, 2010)
Or
Ready-made frozen pastry for one two-crust, 9-inch pie
2 medium potatoes (will yield 1 cup mashed potato)
1-1/4 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ pound ground pork or veal
½ pound extra lean ground beef
½ cup finely chopped brown or white onion
Dash ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon each ground allspice and ground cinnamon
Dash each cloves and black pepper

Make the filling: Peel the potatoes and then cut them into one-inch cubes. Immediately place potatoes in a 2-quart saucepot, covered with cold water. Add ½ teaspoon of the salt, cover and bring to boil. Cook on medium-high heat for 5 to 6 minutes, or until potatoes are fork-tender. Drain potatoes completely and mash finely, removing all lumps. Transfer the mashed potato to a glass or porcelain bowl; cover and set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, in a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat the oil on high setting. Add meats, onion, remaining salt, spices and pepper. Cook on medium-high heat, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, 4 to 5 minutes or until onion is translucent and meat is cooked through. Transfer to a colander set over a glass or porcelain bowl to drain; set aside.

Preheat oven to 425˚F and line a 9-inch glass or porcelain pie plate with one pâte brisée or readymade pastry sheet. Using a fork, make intermittent holes in pastry-lined plate and set aside.

Transfer the drained meat in a 4-quart mixing bowl and stir in the mashed potato until mixture is uniform. Carefully spread the meat filling evenly onto pastry-lined plate.

Place second pastry sheet over meat filling; trim edges and seal. Using a fork, make a few holes over pastry top. To prevent burning, cover edges of pastry with aluminum foil strips.

Place pie on a rack positioned in center of oven and bake for 30 minutes, removing foil strips during last 5 minutes of baking.

Serve warm, garnished with ketchup (on the side or drizzled over each individual slice).

Wine pairing: red Bordeaux.

Text and Photographs © Nancy Real 2010

Spicy Ornaments

Prep time: 45 minutes
Bake time: 12 to 14 minutes
Yield: 32 to 34 cookies

When it comes to holiday cookies, my family is notoriously picky about flavors and textures. My son and I love chocolate in everything, but my husband prefers light, dry cookies with just a hint of chocolate. Since all of us enjoy aromatic and spicy tastes, a few Christmases ago I created a cookie to please all of our palates - it features cocoa, cinnamon and cloves.

These Spicy Ornaments echo the sparkle of Christmas and the excitement of opening gifts. Be patient and enjoy the cookie - it will surprise you with a zesty finish!

When I entered this recipe in the Holiday Cookie Bakeoff this past November, it became one of fifty finalists. It resulted in the LA Times becoming a follower of The Kitchen Buzzz. Thanks to all my supporters who voted for Spicy Ornaments and Happy Holidays!

Ingredients for the cookies:
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ cup unsweetened cocoa
¾ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon chipotle ahumado powder
1-1/3 cups granulated sugar
½ cup vegetable oil
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
¼ cup red crystal sugars, set in a small bowl
¼ cup green crystal sugars, set in a small bowl

Ingredients for the icing:
1 cup confectioners’ sugar (powdered sugar)
2-1/2 to 3 teaspoons cold water
Pastry bag fitted with a narrow tip

Preheat oven to 375˚F. Grease and flour two large, nonstick rectangular baking sheets; set aside.

Meanwhile, in a 1-quart bowl, combine the flour, cocoa, salt, baking powder, cinnamon, cloves and chipotle ahumado powder; set aside.

In a 4-quart bowl, beat together the sugar, oil, eggs and vanilla until mixture is uniform, about 2 minutes. Stir in the combined dry ingredients and beat on medium-high until a dough is formed, about 2 to 4 minutes.

Pulling off pieces of dough, form 1-1/2-inch balls and set them on a flat surface. Roll half of the dough balls in the red crystal sugars and other half in the green crystal sugars (about 16 to 17 balls of each color). Divide dough balls evenly and set on baking sheets, spaced two inches apart.

Bake in preheated oven for 6 minutes. Invert the sheets and bake an additional 6 to 7 minutes or until cookie tops crack and feel slightly firm to the touch. Remove baking sheets from oven and set on a counter. With a spatula, immediately transfer the cookies to a flat surface to cool.

In a 2-cup bowl, vigorously stir the powdered sugar and 2-1/2 teaspoons of the water until mixture is smooth. The icing should feel thick and not watery. If it is too firm, add a little more water. Transfer icing to the bag, pushing it all the way down to the tip.

Holding bag firmly in hand, decorate the surface cracks of the cookies with curvilinear designs.

Spicy Ornaments can be made two weeks ahead and stored in freezer in double plastic food bags (without the icing). To thaw: remove cookies from freezer and from plastic bags. Set them on a platter at room temperature for two hours. Decorate with icing before serving.

Note: Chipotle ahumado powder can be purchased online at GOURMETSLEUTH.COM.

Text and Photographs © Nancy Real 2010

Celebrating Chanukah - Potato & Chives Latkes

Prep time: 35 to 40 minutes
Makes: 6 to 7 latkes

Chanukah, also known as the “Festival of Lights”, is a Jewish holiday which commemorates the rededication of the Holy Temple (Second Temple) in Jerusalem. During Chanukah, one of the traditions occurring in Jewish homes is the lighting of a candle on a Menorah – a candelabrum. This light-and-prayer ceremony takes place every evening, before dinner, for a total of eight days. Over the years, I have been invited quite often to my Jewish friends' homes in order to participate in such a joyous celebration.

Among the wonderful foods featured at Chanukah dinners, are the potato pancakes called “latkes”. Made with shredded potatoes, onion and egg, latkes are crunchy on the outside and deliciously sweet inside. Since I crave homemade potato latkes more than once a year, I learned how to make them. And although I added my own accent of chives, I serve these latkes as tradition has it - with applesauce and sour cream. Enjoy.

Ingredients:
1 pound Russet potatoes (approx. one large)
1 small white or brown onion
1 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
Dash ground black pepper
1 tablespoon all-purpose, unbleached flour
1 to 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup olive oil
8 ounces (1 cup) ready-made applesauce
8 ounces (1 cup) sour cream

Peel and grate potato into a large bowl with cold water. Peel and grate the onion into the same bowl; stir in ½ teaspoon of the salt. Let mixture soak 1 to 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a 4-quart mixing bowl, beat together the egg, remaining ½ teaspoon of salt, black pepper, flour and chives. Set aside.

Drain the potato-onion mixture in a colander, pressing down to remove excess water. Transfer the drained potato-onion mixture to a cheesecloth or clean white kitchen towel; roll up and squeeze out excess water.

Stir the potato and chives into the egg mixture and blend with a fork until uniform.
Heat both oils in a 12-inch, nonstick skillet until oil is hot but not smoking. Measure ¼-cup potato mixture into hands and form a round, flattish shape. Place in hot oil, pressing down with a spatula to form a 4-inch pancake (latke). Add two more measures of potato mixture in skillet and cook 3 to 4 minutes per side, on medium-high heat, until latkes are golden brown. Drain on paper towels on a platter.

Serve latkes hot, accompanied by applesauce and sour cream. Latkes usually accompany beef brisket. However, I also serve latkes with other roasted meats.

Note: If oil is not hot enough, the latkes will be oily.

Text and Photographs © Nancy Real 2010

Turkey Burritos with Cranberry Orange Sauce

Prep time: 15 minutes for the sauce and 15 minutes for the turkey filling
Makes: 2 to 2-1/2 cups sauce and 4 burritos

This recipe is the perfect solution for a quick fixin' of turkey leftovers - in the gourmet mode. The Cranberry Orange Sauce should be made ahead of time and, of course, goes well with our upcoming Thanksgiving dinner. The next day or for the entire post-holiday week, simply sauté some shredded turkey with onions, heat up a few tortillas et voila! The combined flavors of roasted turkey and cranberry orange sauce intertwined with a hot tortilla will satisfy any palate. Buen Provecho!

Ingredients for the Cranberry Orange Sauce:
1 teaspoon cornstarch
2 tablespoons cold water
2 cups fresh cranberries
Juice of one orange
1 cup cold water
3/4 cup granulated sugar
One 3-inch cinnamon stick (optional)

In a cup, stir together the cornstarch with 2 tablespoons cold water; set aside.

Meanwhile, in a 2-quart saucepot, stir remaining ingredients together. Set saucepot on stove burner, uncovered, on high heat setting. Bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to low setting and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 to 5 minutes or until cranberries pop and a sauce has formed. While sauce is simmering, stir in the cornstarch mixture; cook and stir 1 additional minute. Remove and discard cinnamon stick. Transfer the sauce to a Pyrex or porcelain bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, set on a counter and cool completely.

The sauce can be made up to one week ahead, stored and covered in a glass or porcelain container and refrigerated.

Ingredients for the Turkey Burritos:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups shredded, cooked turkey meat (light or dark meat)
1/2 cup chopped white or brown onion
1/2 cup vegetable or chicken broth
Four 10-inch flour tortillas*

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat oil. Add turkey and onion. Cook on medium high heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent and turkey meat toasts and becomes light golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Transfer cooked turkey filling to a glass or porcelain bowl, cover and keep warm.

In the meantime, wipe skillet clean and place on stove burner on medium low setting. Warm up the tortillas in skillet, two at a time, inverting them occasionally until warmed through. Transfer both warmed tortillas to a flat working surface.

With one tortilla in front of you, place 1/4 of the turkey filling one inch from edge closest to you. Slightly spread the filling to the sides, horizontally, until it is one inch from tortilla sides.

Beginning the burrito roll up by picking up the tortilla edge closest to you. Roll up the burrito halfway. Fold in the tortilla sides and continue the roll up until you have formed a burrito.

Warm up remaining two tortillas and repeat burrito assembly.

Gobble up the burritos immediately!

*Preferred tortilla brands: Guerrero or Diana (other types tend to be dry). Tortillas can be found in most supermarkets or in Latin American markets.

Text and Photographs © Nancy Real 2010

Pumpkin "Cheese" Cake

Prep time: 20 minutes
Bake time: 40 to 50 minutes (cake can be made a day ahead and refrigerated)
Serves: 12 to 15

During the week before Thanksgiving I usually make pumpkin bread. This year, I reinvented this Autumn coffee go-with. I made a pumpkin cake that retains an old-fashioned, "bready" element and added a cream cheese filling. Some of the white flour has been substituted with whole wheat flour. And, although I eliminated the oil, this dessert is still moist and scrumptious. I hope everyone makes this "no fuss" cake for Thanksgiving - and don't forget the coffee!

Ingredients:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon allspice
One 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened at room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
One 15-ounce can pumpkin
1 cup nonfat, plain yogurt
4 large eggs
1 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup (4 ounces) Dulce de Leche*
5-Minute Sweetened Whipped Cream (previously published on this blog on July 18, 2010)

Preheat oven to 350˚F. Grease and flour an 11-inch round spring form pan and set aside.

In a 4-cup mixing bowl, combine the flours, salt, baking powder, cinnamon and allspice; set aside.

Meanwhile, in a 2-cup mixing bowl, using a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with a bowl, beat together the cream cheese, sugar and egg; set aside.

In a 3 or 4-quart mixing bowl, mix together the pumpkin, yogurt, eggs, sugar and vanilla on low speed. Gradually add the combined dry ingredients to the pumpkin mixture and beat at low speed until the batter is uniform, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Pour half of the pumpkin batter into the prepared pan, spreading it evenly with a spatula. Spoon the cream cheese mixture evenly over batter in pan followed by remaining pumpkin batter. Make sure the top pumpkin batter layer covers the cream cheese mixture evenly.

Place pan with batter on a rack positioned in center of oven and bake 40 to 50 minutes. After 40 minutes, check doneness of cake by inserting a pointed knife in its center. If knife has sticky batter around it, bake cake for an additional 5 minutes. Check doneness once more. Knife inserted should come out clean. If not, bake another 5 minutes.

Cool cake completely in spring form pan on counter. If making a day ahead, cover pan with aluminum foil and refrigerate.

Remove cake from refrigerator 2 hours before serving.

At serving time, remove sides of spring form pan and set cake on a platter (do not remove cake from pan bottom).

Serve each piece with a drizzle of dulce de leche and the whipped cream.

*Dulce de leche is a caramel sauce from Argentina and can be found in Latin American supermarkets. It is usually packaged and sold in a 15-ounce glass or plastic jar.

Text and Photographs © Nancy Real 2010

Gnocchi Duo

Prep time: 15 to 20 minutes
Serves: 3 to 4

In Italian cuisine, gnocchi are treated as a first course and are featured among the pasta dishes on a menu. Classic gnocchi are made of potatoes and flour and served with different sauces. Since it's difficult for me to be limited to one sauce and one flavor, I serve gnocchi with a duo of sauces. This recipe calls for a tomato sauce and a walnut-olive oil drizzle over the gnocchi. It's simple to make and a delight to the eye and palate.

Ingredients:
One pound (16 ounces) ready-made gnocchi (vacuum-packed or frozen)
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup tomato sauce, made ahead (see tomato sauce recipe for spaghetti, previously published on this blog on 8-25-10)
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Dash ground black pepper
1/2 cup freshly ground walnuts
4 walnut halves (for garnish)
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino Romano cheese

In a 5-quart saucepot, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil. Add the gnocchi and salt. Cook on medium-high heat, uncovered, until gnocchi rise to the surface (about 3 to 4 minutes).

Transfer saucepot to a cool surface. With a slotted spoon, gently remove gnocchi from water, dividing them equally among three or four dinner plates.

Working with one plate of gnocchi at a time, drizzle one tablespoon of the oil on half of the gnocchi, followed by some black pepper and a sprinkle of walnuts. Garnish with a walnut half. Spoon some tomato on other half of the gnocchi in plate and garnish with a parsley sprig.

Repeat with remaining plates of gnocchi. Ask each guest to add their own cheese.

Wine suggestion: Bordeaux (red or white).

Note: Do not overcook gnocchi, as they will become mushy and fall apart. When buying gnocchi, you may have to experiment with different brands until you find one that you like.

My favorite Italian brands are: Ferrara® and DeCecco®. Both varieties are vacuum-packed and found in the pasta section of supermarkets or international markets.

As for a frozen brand, I recently found La Salteña® gnocchi at an Argentine market/restaurant called Buenos Aires, located in Van Nuys, California.

Text and Photographs © Nancy Real 2010

Nancy's Tastes & Trips - Magnavino Wine & Food, in Bastia & Assisi (Perugia, Italy)

I'd like to share a recent culinary experience in Italy, the land of my heritage.

Last month, while in Perugia, I was highly recommended by "Paolo the Hair Stylist" to seek out Magnavino, in a town called Bastia, located in the heart of Umbria, Italy's central region. Since Paolo told me that he was from Bastia, I heeded his advice based on two things: 1) when an Italian mentions a restaurant in his hometown, it means he is a regular there; and 2) if an Italian eats at a restaurant, it means the food is as good as Mamma's and it's homemade.


The proprietor of Magnavino is Mario, a chef/artist who reinvents his homeland's traditional foods with flair. The cuisine presented by Mario boasts bold flavors and a commanding presentation. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by Mario's right hand, Stefania. She immediately served us a local Umbrian red wine with a deep oak bouquet and smooth finish. The restaurant was filled with regulars, and since Italians are demanding of fresh, high quality foods, this was definitely a good sign.

The appetizers were exquisite - we enjoyed warm homemade paté and a napoleon filled with an exquisite asparagus tapenade. We could taste each ingredient in Mario's recipes.


The highlight of our "pranzo" or lunch that September day was the black gnocchi infused with squid ink, served with calamari and fresh tomatoes. While traditional potato gnocchi are bland, deriving their flavor from the sauce and ingredients around them, the gnocchi served at Magnavino contain nuances of fresh seafood. At first bite, one can immediately tell that Mario adds "just the right amount" of squid ink to the gnocchi.

I asked Stefania if I could meet the chef in order to compliment him on his quasi-orgasmic foods. My husband and I were escorted to the kitchen where Mario was working so hard to please all his patrons. Because he was short-staffed that day, we witnessed a multi-tasking Mario creating a zillion dishes in a furious frenzy. Nevertheless, he managed to please everyone to the max.


At Magnavino, one dines like a local and is treated as a member of the family. The ambiance is medieval-chic, the people are warm and the food - HEAVENLY!


MAGNAVINO WINE & FOOD
Bastia & Assisi (two locations in the province of Perugia)
Telephone: Bastia - 075 8011569; Assisi - 075 816814.

Text and Photographs © Nancy Real 2010